Sri Lanka had been on my travel radar for quite some time. After hearing such great feedback from clients, I was eager to immerse myself in a new culture, delve into the roots of Buddhism and witness wildlife in its stunning natural habitats.
I carefully planned a two-week itinerary for my partner and I, choosing night flights to make the most of our time. We flew with Qatar Airways from London Heathrow via Doha to Colombo, and their service was impressively efficient.
To ensure a personalised experience, we arranged for a private guide who met us upon arrival.
From there, we were transferred to The Walawwa in Negombo for an overnight stay - a charming little hotel that was perfect for a stopover.
I highly recommend opting for an SUV (Sports Utility Vehicle) for the added legroom, comfort and elevated views - it makes a real difference.
The journeys between stops in Sri Lanka are longer than they appear on the map, as the roads are quite hilly and winding. However, the drive is incredibly fascinating.
As you pass through various towns and villages, the landscape continually shifts, offering a glimpse into the diverse regions. We saw local families with their ox carts, countless mopeds and tuk-tuks on the roads, and even elephants casually wandering along the roadside.
The Cultural Triangle
The first leg of our journey was a 4-hour drive to the Cultural Triangle, where we spent three nights at the fabulous Jetwing Vil Uyana in a Forest Retreat Room with a private pool.
The Cultural Triangle, nestled amid lush rubber plantations that contribute to Sri Lanka’s thriving tyre industry, is a treasure trove of ancient sites and rich history, offering a captivating glimpse into the island’s cultural heritage.
Polonnaruwa, one of the best examples of ancient Sri Lanka, was a highlight. The ruins cover a vast area, with the giant Resting Buddha being particularly impressive, as well as the Buddhist monks' residence.
Although I didn’t climb Sigiriya due to the heat and crowds, it’s an extraordinary sight, unlike anything I've ever seen. If you can manage the climb, I’d definitely recommend it.
In Minneriya, we were blown away when we came across a herd of elephants feeding at dusk. Nestled in the undergrowth, our jeep was surrounded by families of elephants enjoying the lush grasses.
While at the hotel, we also went on a night search for the elusive loris. We did spot them, but only their glowing eyes in the dark, visible through infrared.
Dambulla and Kandy
We set off for the Dambulla Cave Temples and the Golden Temple en route to Kandy, stopping for lunch at a lovely Spice Garden.
The Dambulla Cave Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are an incredible complex of five sanctuaries carved into a massive rock. These caves, adorned with ancient murals and hundreds of Buddha statues, represent over 2,000 years of Sri Lanka’s spiritual and artistic heritage.
The Golden Temple at the base is equally striking, with its towering Buddha statue serving as a symbol of peace and enlightenment.
The climb up the hill had quite a spiritual feel, and when you reach the temple area carved into the sides of the rock, you can’t help but feel humbled by the history and serenity surrounding you.
Our two-night stay in Kandy was at the Elephant Stables, a charming colonial bungalow perched on a hill with panoramic views of the city. This luxurious boutique hotel beautifully blends original mid-century furniture with modern chic interiors, all while offering impeccable service.
Kandy, a bustling city nestled in a valley, showcases its British heritage through landmarks like the historic Queens Hotel overlooking the lake and the Royal Botanic Gardens with its charming Tea Rooms.
We explored the area with a tour that included a visit to a Gem Factory and enjoyed a spectacular cultural show featuring traditional dance, fire eating, and fire walking.
Tea Country
I was eager to see Sri Lanka from a new angle, so we took the train from Kandy to the Tea Country. This journey, often hailed as one of Asia’s most scenic train rides, takes around 3.5 hours with several stops. It winds through lush tea plantations, past waterfalls, and over stunning mountain peaks.
Our guide had thoughtfully arranged first class seats for us, and he helped us find our way. The train, well-organised and efficient, provided a fantastic view of the countryside.
An intriguing fact: the railway, constructed over 100 years ago, continues to run smoothly, showcasing the enduring charm of this historic route.
Our guide greeted us at the station in Nuwara Eliya, the heart of Sri Lanka's Tea Country, and drove us to The Grand Hotel Nuwara Eliya, where we stayed in a delightful Junior Suite.
Nuwara Eliya, often referred to as “Little England,” is known for its cool climate, lush green landscapes and colonial-era architecture.
We enjoyed a scenic drive around the hills and visited a local tea factory, nestled amidst the plantations.
Here, we had the chance to see the fascinating process behind our cup of tea. After the tour, we relaxed in the lobby/ shop area, sampling a selection of teas and cakes while browsing the shop’s offerings.
Yala
Next, we ventured to Yala for the wildlife-focused part of our journey. The drive took approximately three and a half hours, with stops at the Botanical Gardens and Ella Waterfalls along the way.
We spent two nights at Flameback Eco Tented Lodge, a no-frills unique accommodation.
The highlight was an unforgettable moment when a herd of water buffalo trotted through the camp to bathe in the lake - while I happened to be in the swimming pool at the time! 😊
Yala National Park is renowned for its diverse ecosystems and rich tapestry of wildlife experiences, including expansive grasslands, dense jungles and picturesque lakes.
Our game drive began with an early start and a lengthy wait to enter the park. While priority entry is available for an additional fee, the experience was a bit touristy and crowded at times.
Nevertheless, Sri Lanka's wildlife is nothing short of spectacular. Although we sadly missed seeing leopards, we were treated to incredible birdlife and more elephants.
Tangalle
Our final destination was Tangalle, a tranquil coastal town on Sri Lanka’s southern shore, renowned for its beautiful beaches, crystal-clear waters and serene ambience.
We capped off our adventure with a three-night stay at the exquisite Anantara Peace Haven Hotel, where we enjoyed the perfect blend of relaxation, luxury, and coastal exploration.
Accommodation Advice
For those who appreciate high standards, aiming for quality is essential. We selected smaller hotels housed in characterful buildings, except for our beach stay. Our favourite was undoubtedly the Jetwing Vil in the Cultural Triangle, where rooms are nestled in nature and the restaurant was outstanding.
Everywhere we stayed, the service was exceptional and attentive. Food options were diverse, though smaller hotels often required advance orders for breakfast and dinner.
Larger chain hotels, on the other hand, offer extensive facilities and are well-suited for larger tours, with buffet-style dining.
While I had to be mindful of spicy dishes, dietary requirements were generally well accommodated.
Summary
Our trip was unforgettable - the highlights included exploring Polonnaruwa, observing elephants in Minneriya and the scenic train ride from Kandy.
The Sri Lankan people are exceptionally warm and helpful, and their pride in their country made for a cultural experience unlike any other I’ve had.
I would definitely return, as we missed out on Galle and other smaller wildlife parks that might offer better chances of spotting leopards. Additionally, exploring the northeast could be rewarding, especially since the beaches there are known to be very calm during the summer months.
For travellers keen on experiencing Sri Lanka, I recommend booking early as smaller hotels can fill up quickly from November to March. Planning your itinerary thoughtfully is crucial, and if undertaking a similar trip with night flights, a stopover on the return journey might be beneficial.
If you’d like assistance planning your own Sri Lanka adventure, feel free to give us a call - we'd be delighted to help you craft an unforgettable trip.
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